So the missus and I just got back from our honeymoon in Italy, specifically Rome and Florence. It was my first time overseas. It is a trip I would absolutely make again. We had a fantastic time. The places and sights were incredible.
Before I get into that, though, I feel the need to let you, dear reader, know a few things about the general Roman sight-seeing experience itself. If you've been there already, then you already know what I'm about to say. If not, lend me your reading eyes.
QUOTE OF THE WEEK: "All Italian drivers are crazy -- including me." That was the guy driving Terri and me to the train station in Rome to head for Florence. He spoke the best English Terri and I heard all week from a European, all while zipping through the insane road system of Rome.
And yes, those roads are crazy. Anyone who google maps Rome will see that it is clearly not a grid system. Imagine taking a bunch of uncooked spaghetti noodles of varying lengths and throwing them onto a table. That is Rome's road system. There is, in my experience, nothing in Rome like Austin's Lamar or Houston's Westheimer. The closest thing may be the Fori Imperiali, which connects the Colosseum and the Roman Forum -- although even that stretch of road can be a crapshoot. In Rome, there is basically no such thing as following this road or that "all the way until you get" ... anywhere. Often you will follow a road for a little while and then it will become five roads.
I tell you this not to discourage you, but to urge you to enjoy the experience of getting lost in Rome. Because believe me, if you try to walk everywhere -- say, from the Trevi Fountain to St. Paul's Basilica, you will get lost. You will walk outside and have no idea which way is north. You will ask a native for directions. (Remember this phrase: "Doe-VAH lay" meaning "where is...") He or she will give you directions. You will follow those directions to the best of your ability as a reasonable, thinking person. It won't matter. Five minutes later you will not know where you are and will ask someone else for directions.
Don't get mad when that happens. Embrace the obliteration of your inner compass! Find a nice gelatteria and everything will be all right. You may have a hard time finding the Colosseum, but you won't have a hard time finding gelatto, or authentic Italian pizza. Both are everywhere.
What you won't find is a free parking spot. (Not that it will matter for you. You will be walking, cabbing, or busing everywhere.) Almost every road is lined in full with parallel parked cars. Double parking is commonplace. Driveways will be partially blocked. Some of them will have their passenger-side wheels on the curb. Or the driver side wheels. That's another thing. You know how in the United States all the parallel cars have to face the same direction? Not in Italy. In fact, you will come across Smart Cars that are parked perpendicular to the curb. AND THEY FIT.
Oh and let's not forget the scooters. Those are parked just everywhere. Along the sidewalk. ON the sidewalk. Up in the trees, practically. Almost always closely packed together. They are the sardines of Roman roads.
(If you absolutely do not want to get lost, your best bet is to take a cab. Yeah, it costs a bit. The starting fare is EU2.80, and it will go up ten cents every 30 seconds or so. But in my mind it's worth it just to get where you know you want to go next. If not that, you can learn the bus system.)
But to return to our masterful English-speaking driver's observation -- Italian drivers are crazy. I know in America we call the learning process "defensive" driving. I doubt that's what they call it in Italy.
In Italy, it doesn't really matter what the speed limit is. If you have 20 meters of empty asphault in front of you, you floor it for 19 and a half. That's just how it works. The white lines that mark the asphault, be they dotted or solid, really are just guidelines there. You will see massive circular turnarounds that have absolutely no lane demarkation.
What we in America refer to as "cutting someone off" happens in Italy all the time. If there is more than one car-length between two cars, that space will be filled by a merging vehicle. Italian's have amazing depth perception. They have the ability to drive 45, 50 miles per hour, literally inches away from pedestrians.
But Italian drivers, as far as Terri and I could tell, are not ANGRY. Crazy, yes, but not angry. In America, we get angry when we get behind the wheel. We take offense to someone else cutting us off. I know I do. But not Italians. We heard from multiple people there that Italians don't believe in "lines," in the right of getting somewhere first just because you were on the road first. Nope. In America, we have this sense of "I was here first, and you have no right to cut in front of me," a first-come first-serve mentality. Not there. It's much more, to use Eddie Izzard's words, "relaxed and groovy."
Yes, a strange dichotomy. Crazy on one hand, but relaxed and groovy on the other. Crazy in the way they drive, but relaxed and groovy in the way they respond when other people drive the same way they do. In some ways it is less hypocritical than the way of driving I encounter in my native country -- and yes, sometimes practice myself. What right do I, driving crazy, have to expect others to drive reasonably? I hope to never drive the way Italians do. But I hope I can imitate them in responding to other drivers.